For the last few days I have been 3D printing various sized crochet hooks to try out. I have also ordered some recycled sari yarn and some felt yarn to play around with when it arrives. I think I will still be using the idea using the para cord, however this will be used in items that need to be much more durable, such as seating and rugs. The softer fabrics I will be using for items such as cushions and throws.
I have printed 2 more hooks, one is 5mm and the other 9mm. During the build I had a problem with the filament snapping during the build. As the printer extruded the last of the orange plastic I decided to try and make a two-tone piece and inserted pink filament. This worked fine for the larger hook however the smaller one broke in the middle of the hook. I think this was due to the slight difference in heat needed for each colour. This weakened exactly at the join and broke almost as soon as I had taken it off the bed. I have now reprinted the 5mm hook in one solid colour for strength.
Hook prints after inserting pink filament.
I changed the design of the hooks slightly so that there is a little more plastic on the section that pushes though the yarn. I noticed that using my previous hook the plastic wore away quite fast.
The first hook I made in rhino and just piped it with a normal Rhino pipe. The second designs I piped using T-splines which allowed me to pull the top of the hook out slightly more than the original.
I got my porcelain olive bowls back from their second firing and glaze today. I was very shocked by the massive amount of shrinkage during the second firing. I will need to take this into account next time and make them bigger than I need to compensate for this.
Orange glaze bowl.
Collection of the finished bowls.
I was really happy with the final result of the orange glazed bowl. The white crack glaze just came out white which was a little disappointing. I gave the bowls three coats of glaze, I think this may have been applied too thick looking at the end result. This also made the supports stick to the underside of the bowls which meant on removal did not have a good finish and left some metal in the porcelain as well as bumps.
Close up of red glaze bowl.
The underneath of the bowls showing lumps and metal in the glaze from firing.
The lines from the 3D printed mold is visible in the finished pieces, however very subtle. I think that if I am more sparing with applying the glaze these will be a little more visible.
Close up of orange bowl showing lines from 3D printed mold.
For the last few weeks I have been playing around with the layout of the shipping containers and how I would like my final house and workshop to look.
I have been thinking about what I need and how to fit this into a very small space. I know for definite that I want to have a workshop and client area on the ground floor. I am trying to decide now if the bedroom and bathroom should be upstairs and the kitchen/ living space down stairs or vice versa.
I know that the most important part of the design is going to be how I can build a stylish home and cleverly integrate in to it enough storage so as the interior doesn’t look cluttered. The underneath of the bed will all be storage. I would like the stairs to all be drawers and deviding walls to also be storage.
For most of my life I have had a real adversion to making anything in textiles or fabric. Today I got over that fear and decided that I should lean in order to be able to make the fabric items for my house. I started by looking up YouTube videos on how to crochet. I then made a crochet hook in Rhino and printed it from my home M3D. I printed using the highest quality settings and it took 2 hours to print.
First attempt at crochet from para cord.
I managed to sort out the problems I was having with my printer changing where it was building on the bed mid build. This was down to the filament catching and not unraveling properly while printing.
First piece, half made.
The crocheting took a few attempts and unraveling before I got the hang of it. I was worried about the hook not being strong enough however it held up throughout the day’s work. I printed the hook at around 4mm thickness. The tool was easy to use, however the part the finger should grip was a little low and so I need to develop the handle of the design to make it a little more comfortable.
3D printed crochet hook.
One of the other problems with using the hook straight off the machine is the support structure left on the handle. When removing the support it left small spikes of plastic that weren’t comfortable on the hand. I could either file these away or print on a machine that builds from the base rather that supports.
Underside of crochet hook showing rogue support material.
Today I have been trying out the press mold for my whisky glasses. The first few I did were a little floored but the more I made the better they became. My 3D printed chizel was perfect for cutting off the excess clay from the top of the mold. I was keen to see the effect of using molds printed on different machines. The mold from the ultimaker gave a much smoother finish to the pieces. I like the effect of the two contrasting textures.
Close up showing both textures in the clay.
Selection I have made so far.
Some of the vessels came out with areas that were not smooth. I found placing the clay back into the molds and pressing them again sorted out this problem.
Mold before use.
Clay pressed into the mold.
Clay cut with 3D printed chisel.
To speed up the drying process I used my hair dryer. This worked well for the clay but warped the outside of the orange mold slightly with the heat. The inside seems to not have been effected which is good.
Clay smoothed down and drying also showing warped mold.
I have spent the last few days drawing up the jig for making the steel section of my bedroom light. I have emailed this off to DJCAD to get printed in resin. I have made the triangles about double the size of my jewellery work as I know how long it will take me to weld the piece together. The last time I made something of this scale was my 3D printed bowl I made in 2007 which took 1,200,000 zaps of the laser and over a month of 9-5pm to make. I am hoping the change in scale will cut down some of the build time by about a week. I have also thought about what size of wire I will use to make the piece.
Karen-Ann Dicken: Laser welded bowl- 2007
I usually use 0.5mm steel, which is about the thinnest you can laser weld. I think I may use about 0.8mm for the light which will make it a little stronger also, but without taking away from the aesthetics. I have made the holes on the jig 1mm with a 1mm wall thickness. In the past I have made the holes smaller but this gives a higher risk of them filling with resin during the build.
Jig made in Rhino.
After spending Saturday and Sunday trying to print out the press mold from my M3D micro I have been left with a pile of nice white and orange spaghetti resembling parts of my mold. I managed to get one half of the mold printed ok. This is in orange PLA. This morning David at the City of Glasgow College kindly printed the second half for me in a bright red PLA from the College ultimaker machine. The ultimaker gave a much smoother finish than the M3D. I will try the two parts with clay but may need to get both printed on the same machine.
Failed M3D print on lowest quality setting.
Print from the ultimaker machine.
I did manage to get a few samples from the half build press molds over the weekend. I placed the join of the molds where the join of the triangles meet in the piece so that the final piece is less messy to look at by eye. I used my 3D printed Chizel to take the excess clay off the mold.
A few of the first pieces I tried were quite difficult to get out of the molds when wet. I tried spraying the mold with wD40 before hand and then drying the clay a little with my hairdryer before removing. This made the process much easier.
I am happy with the form of the pieces. I think maybe I should try accentuating the overhangs in some places where they might be a little subtle or lost compared to other sections.
After spending a few weeks playing with porcelain and designing the ceramic bedroom light it has given me some ideas for making drinking vessels for my container. I have been coming up with some designs in my sketchbook along the same lines as the base of the bedroom light I have designed.
Through these pieces I would really like to be able to show the mixture and contrast between the handmade and the use of CAD. What I really enjoy about this with clay is the way in which clay is naturally so organic and malleable by hand. It makes the process easy to both impress on and use CAD but also has a warm hand made finish or feeling.
The glasses will be pressed into CAD molds and hand finished on the inside. I would really like to use a simple white cracked glaze on the outside and a more metallic glaze splash of colour on the inside.
Render of shot glass designs.
Last night I came home from work excitedly with plans to print a small shot glass and make them over the weekend. As I went to bed last night I set my printer up to print the mold through the night. I woke up at 4am to a strange buzzing noise. As I got out of bed I found a big pile of white spaghetti in my printer. The print was due to take 7 hours, so I collaborated the printer set up the print again and went back to bed.
My overnight print fails.
The same thing happened at 8am and again at 10am. I have cut down the mold size a little to make the build 5 hours and put on to build again. Fingers crossed this one is going to work so I can make some shot glasses later.
For one of my first projects I have been designing the light which will be in my bedroom in the shipping container. The designs for my bedroom are quite minimal with lots of hidden storage space. The light will be one of the few features within the room.
For many of my designs I was looking at quite organic forms. I have been interested in using ceramics within the piece. My designs eventually went full circle and I arrived back at my favourite technique of laser welding.
Out of the three final designs I came up with I am going to make the one with the closed top so that shadows will be projected around all of the room. I have also chosen to make the geodesic ceramic base as I feel this works better with my design than the plain version.
Through some of my drawings I have been thinking about the power wires. Through discussion with my mentor I have came to the conclusion some kind of self charging light would be good so that no cables would be necessary, also adding to the aesthetics of the piece.