Egg Cups

I have been really enjoying raising metal in the workshop over the last few months. Aside from getting very toned in one arm, there is something very therapeutic about creating objects by hand.


I first cut out two disks 75mm radius.  I later had to cut this down by about 12mm so I should have begun with 62-64mm.  This means the edge on this piece will be thinner than I would like. 

I have almost got them to the shape I like but want to bring in an egg next week to make sure they fit perfectly. 

I plan to 3D print and cast matching bases for them.

Rat Brain Cell Colander

I have decided that as a little tongue and cheek I will add a rat handle to my rat brain cell colander.  When I thought about it last week I had a giggle to myself about having a rat hanging on my wall and watching me whilst cooking my pasta in my shipping container.  The rats tail doubles back to allow it to be hung from the wall.  I have spent a few days modelling this and I still need to finish off the bowl and think about how I am going to attach the rat handle to the bowl.  I want to try and stay away from using artificial chemical bonding (aka glue), I may add in holes that I can try and plastic weld the two together with my 3D doodle pen.  My other idea is to try and make a clip out of the handle that the hands will attach to.

rat3

 

Light jig

i got my 3D printed resin jig back a few days ago. It has been nearly ten years since I printed my last jig on the SLA resin machine at RCA. This one was printed on a much more modern machine called a form lab which can print in various types of resin. My model had to be scaled down slightly to fit the bed size of the machine.  The result of this has been that the tube sizes were too small and closed up making the jig unusable.  Although it looks great as an object I will need to rebuild this in CAD.


Colander

I have been working a lot on my second colander design idea.  This has taken me much longer to create than the one I posted earlier this week.  I prefer this design however It isn’t yet finished and I have some tweaking in T-splines to do.  I also need to design the handle so that this can be printed separately as it is too large for the printer bed size.

COLLANDERBRAINCELL

I am a little concerned about the size of some of the gaps in the piece.  I will print a version as it is after the tweaks to test and I can also use this model to develop a fruit bowl for my container.

COLLANDERBRAINCELL3COLLANDERBRAINCELL2

 

Colander

For the last two weeks I have been settling in to my new life in Dundee.  I have been getting equated with the university campus and finding my way around.  I have been buying glaze for my shot glasses as well as printing more press moulds.

Today I set myself the task of designing a colander for the kitchen of my shipping container.  I find the kitchen implements quite and interesting area of my study as it is both a tool and could be 3D printed or I could also go down the line of hand building them.

I feel that as I have to build everything in my house some simpler items such as colanders should be directly 3D printed to save time.  However I am still aware that I would like to focus on the aesthetics of the piece.

I had a few ideas I ran through in my sketchbook looking at cell structures and geodesic domes.  Here is the first CAD model I have made:

collinder

This design was inspired by the roof design’s of both Buckminster Fuller’s domes and Grimshaw’s Eden Project.  The only concern I have is if the holes in the piece are too big it will be impractical and food will fall through it.  I will print this to test first.

Bedroom light jig

I have spent the last few days drawing up the jig for making the steel section of my bedroom light.  I have emailed this off to DJCAD to get printed in resin.  I have made the triangles about double the size of my jewellery work as I know how long it will take me to weld the piece together.  The last time I made something of this scale was my 3D printed bowl I made in 2007 which took 1,200,000 zaps of the laser and over a month of 9-5pm to make.  I am hoping the change in scale will cut down some of the build time by about a week.  I have also thought about what size of wire I will use to make the piece.

bowl

Karen-Ann Dicken: Laser welded bowl- 2007

I usually use 0.5mm steel, which is about the thinnest you can laser weld.  I think I may use about 0.8mm for the light which will make it a little stronger also, but without taking away from the aesthetics.  I have made the holes on the jig 1mm with a 1mm wall thickness.  In the past I have made the holes smaller but this gives a higher risk of them filling with resin during the build.

  
Jig made in Rhino.

 

Porcelain bowl glazing

This afternoon I glazed my porcelain olive bowls ready for their final firing. I used a white mat crack glaze on the outside of the pieces and varied colours on the interior.  I initially wanted some kind of metallic glaze for the inside of the bowls but realise this would mean I wouldn’t be able to use them for food.  I opted instead for orange, red, purple and turquoise interiors.


  
 The porcelain will be fired at 1260 degrees.  I’m looking forwards to seeing the final pieces.

Porcelain bowls

I have got my bowls back from the bisque firing. Some of them are looking good.  Two are a little wonky due to both using the clay too thinly as well as the mold being made from plastic not plaster.  I am going to Glaze them on Monday so I hope they work out in the next firing.

Porcelain Project

Hi Folks, this is my first blog post for what I hope to become a place I can document, share and record my ideas over the next few years, whilst researching my PhD.

I plan to spend the next few years building my own house and workshop and contents through 3D printing all the tools I will need.

This week I have started thinking about bedroom lighting and ceramic items.  I 3D printed some press molds last week from my home 3D printer.  I was restricted by the scale I could print from my M3D as it has such a small build plate size

One of the trickiest things about using the a press mold direct from the printer in plastic is it’s lack of porosity.  Plaster molds will soak up some moisture from the clay allowing for some drying and making it easier to remove.  The final results were a little wonky due to this.

I was thinking about smoothing off the press before using it.  However I wanted to see what the effect of print lines would have to the texture of the porcelin.  I was quite happy with the finished texture.  I’m looking forwards to getting them fired and glazed.