Laser cut bowl 

Today I tried laser cutting some of my bowl designs.  I cut one version that slots in to the top and bottom and one that just slots in to a bottom section with a flat cut top. 


I slotted the pieces together and glued them in to position,  I found that the design was a little tight in the centre section.  It was quite difficult to judge what the line thickness should be in CAD for the slots as the laser melts some material around it.  

After squeezing together the plastic the piece smashed so I will need to redesign it for tomorrow. 

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3D printed bowl

I recently got some tough flexible plastic filament for my M3D printer.  I decided to test it using the design I had produced for my CNC bowl.  It took 25 hours to print.  The great thing about the material is that I didn’t have any problems with it snapping mid build as I have with regular filament. 



Once the print was finished I removed it from the bed and started to remove the support material with pliers.  Although the material is very strong and flexible it was quite difficult to remove the supports in a clean way.

Mixed material bowls

I have been spending the last few weeks designing various bowls that I can test materials with.  I plan to make all of the outside sections through direct processes such as laser cutting, syntering and 3D printing.  All the internal bowls I plan to make using traditional techniques only using modern technology to make the tooling.
Laser cutting ideas:

laserbowl1laserbowl2

Laser syntering in steel:

steelsteel2steel3

CNC milling ideas:

walnutbowl1walnutbowl2walnutbowl3walnutbowl4walnutbowl5

Egg Cups

I have been really enjoying raising metal in the workshop over the last few months. Aside from getting very toned in one arm, there is something very therapeutic about creating objects by hand.


I first cut out two disks 75mm radius.  I later had to cut this down by about 12mm so I should have begun with 62-64mm.  This means the edge on this piece will be thinner than I would like. 

I have almost got them to the shape I like but want to bring in an egg next week to make sure they fit perfectly. 

I plan to 3D print and cast matching bases for them.

Rat Brain Cell Colander

I have decided that as a little tongue and cheek I will add a rat handle to my rat brain cell colander.  When I thought about it last week I had a giggle to myself about having a rat hanging on my wall and watching me whilst cooking my pasta in my shipping container.  The rats tail doubles back to allow it to be hung from the wall.  I have spent a few days modelling this and I still need to finish off the bowl and think about how I am going to attach the rat handle to the bowl.  I want to try and stay away from using artificial chemical bonding (aka glue), I may add in holes that I can try and plastic weld the two together with my 3D doodle pen.  My other idea is to try and make a clip out of the handle that the hands will attach to.

rat3

 

Light jig

i got my 3D printed resin jig back a few days ago. It has been nearly ten years since I printed my last jig on the SLA resin machine at RCA. This one was printed on a much more modern machine called a form lab which can print in various types of resin. My model had to be scaled down slightly to fit the bed size of the machine.  The result of this has been that the tube sizes were too small and closed up making the jig unusable.  Although it looks great as an object I will need to rebuild this in CAD.


Colander

I have been working a lot on my second colander design idea.  This has taken me much longer to create than the one I posted earlier this week.  I prefer this design however It isn’t yet finished and I have some tweaking in T-splines to do.  I also need to design the handle so that this can be printed separately as it is too large for the printer bed size.

COLLANDERBRAINCELL

I am a little concerned about the size of some of the gaps in the piece.  I will print a version as it is after the tweaks to test and I can also use this model to develop a fruit bowl for my container.

COLLANDERBRAINCELL3COLLANDERBRAINCELL2

 

Colander

For the last two weeks I have been settling in to my new life in Dundee.  I have been getting equated with the university campus and finding my way around.  I have been buying glaze for my shot glasses as well as printing more press moulds.

Today I set myself the task of designing a colander for the kitchen of my shipping container.  I find the kitchen implements quite and interesting area of my study as it is both a tool and could be 3D printed or I could also go down the line of hand building them.

I feel that as I have to build everything in my house some simpler items such as colanders should be directly 3D printed to save time.  However I am still aware that I would like to focus on the aesthetics of the piece.

I had a few ideas I ran through in my sketchbook looking at cell structures and geodesic domes.  Here is the first CAD model I have made:

collinder

This design was inspired by the roof design’s of both Buckminster Fuller’s domes and Grimshaw’s Eden Project.  The only concern I have is if the holes in the piece are too big it will be impractical and food will fall through it.  I will print this to test first.

Bedroom light jig

I have spent the last few days drawing up the jig for making the steel section of my bedroom light.  I have emailed this off to DJCAD to get printed in resin.  I have made the triangles about double the size of my jewellery work as I know how long it will take me to weld the piece together.  The last time I made something of this scale was my 3D printed bowl I made in 2007 which took 1,200,000 zaps of the laser and over a month of 9-5pm to make.  I am hoping the change in scale will cut down some of the build time by about a week.  I have also thought about what size of wire I will use to make the piece.

bowl

Karen-Ann Dicken: Laser welded bowl- 2007

I usually use 0.5mm steel, which is about the thinnest you can laser weld.  I think I may use about 0.8mm for the light which will make it a little stronger also, but without taking away from the aesthetics.  I have made the holes on the jig 1mm with a 1mm wall thickness.  In the past I have made the holes smaller but this gives a higher risk of them filling with resin during the build.

  
Jig made in Rhino.

 

Porcelain bowl glazing

This afternoon I glazed my porcelain olive bowls ready for their final firing. I used a white mat crack glaze on the outside of the pieces and varied colours on the interior.  I initially wanted some kind of metallic glaze for the inside of the bowls but realise this would mean I wouldn’t be able to use them for food.  I opted instead for orange, red, purple and turquoise interiors.


  
 The porcelain will be fired at 1260 degrees.  I’m looking forwards to seeing the final pieces.