For the last few days I have been testing various 3D printing filaments. The first one I tested was carbon fibre mixed with PLA. I printed it on a low quality setting, it took about eight hours to print and ran very smoothly. The support material was very easy to remove.
I tested tough flexible filament in black. This also printed off very well. The great thing about this filament was that it fed into the printer with ease and doesn’t snap like some harder PLA.
The final printed object was flexible and I was able to squash it and it returned back to its original form. I wasn’t particularly happy with the finished print quality though. It was a bit messy and the support material was very difficult to remove due to the rubbery nature of the material.
I tested a heat change filament. My home M3D printer had difficulties with this so I printed on the Up machine. This worked well and printed smoothly and in a good quality. The support was easily removed. Although I don’t like the colour the change to white when held in the hand. I have another colour change filament to try which is a little more subtle.
My favourite filament out of this range has to be the brass fill PLA. I printed this on the UP. It printed beautifully and the support was easy to remove. The piece has a really nice weight and sparkles like brass in the sun light.
I also printed a wood fill version. Initially this was printed on the UP with 1.75mm filament. This clogged up the machine so it was printed on the larger printer in a thicker filament which worked. The finished item smells like wood. When filed it feels like a cross between wood and plastic. The bowl has a nice weight but I don’t like the messy nodules the printer has left in some areas.
This morning I amended my laser cutting bowl file from my failed attempt yesterday. I moved out the slats and ran a few tests to make sure the sections slotted in tightly.
I decided not to use any glue when slotting in the sections as yesterday it had reacted with the plastic and left a messy white stain.
It took a little tweaking to get all the parts to go in to the top and bottom sections, but the final piece holds together well.
I laser cut some rings the same size as the top of the bowl and glued them together using super glue to make a press mold.
I cut a piece of copper just larger than the press mold and annealed it.
I then placed the copper on the press mold with rubber above and pressed the copper.
I didn’t want the copper to snap at the rim so I took it up to two bar and then re-annealed it.
I pressed again taking the pressure up to three bars.
I then pierced out the edge of the copper bowl and filed it.
I used 280 grit wet and dry paper to put a mat finish on the copper using a circular motion.
Instead of polishing to a high finish which would oxidise quickly anyway I decided to use platinol to blacken the copper.
I am pretty happy with the finished piece although I am not happy with some of the platinol and may re-apply this tomorrow.
Today I tried laser cutting some of my bowl designs. I cut one version that slots in to the top and bottom and one that just slots in to a bottom section with a flat cut top.
I slotted the pieces together and glued them in to position, I found that the design was a little tight in the centre section. It was quite difficult to judge what the line thickness should be in CAD for the slots as the laser melts some material around it.
After squeezing together the plastic the piece smashed so I will need to redesign it for tomorrow.
I got my egg cup back from the milling machine this week. This time I cut it into walnut as the last one I made I wasn’t particularly happy with the wood. It was too soft and didn’t have a nice finish after sanding.
I started by cutting out the two sections using my jewellery saw. I first sawed into the frame and then cut each of the supports off one at a time. I left a little material from the edge of the piece so as to make sure I didn’t cut into the part I needed.
I then sanded both the inside edges flat and glued together using wood glue.
I didn’t want to mark the wood by putting it in my large rusty vice so I decided to bind it with some copper wire. I found this was better for keeping the edges aligned to each other. When using the vice, I found the two sections more difficult to keep aligned.
After leaving the glue to dry solid, I filed down the excess supports using a large steel file. The smaller sections which was harder to file I used a small flat needle file. The wood was much nicer to work in than the previous one I used. The walnut felt much stronger and I could feel the difference in quality and way it worked instantly.
After filing off the supports I sanded the piece all over through different ascending sandpapers.
After sanding I put a layer of Danish oil on the wood and rubbed it back afte Continue reading Egg cup
Today I 3D scanned a stone aged axe my Grandad found many years ago in England. I have always loved the shape and form of the tool and how it fits perfectly into the hand.
I wanted to use this form to create tools to make forms for pieces for the house.
I scanned the axe at the university and then used the files to create both silversmithing stakes and hammers.
For the stakes I kept the original size of the axe and added a section that would allow it to be gripped in a vice. For the hammers I scaled down the model to 85mm and cut out a hole for the handle.
I am planning on 3D printing the models and casting them possibly in bronze.
I have been working more on my egg cups this week. I just? I am now happy with the general shape of them. If there is one thing I am a little disappointed about it is that I have lost the thickness created by colquing the edge and then cutting it off.
I started planishing one of the cups. I soon found that there were a few lines still visible in the head of the hammer from the 3D printing. I sanded and polished these out before continuing.
Before planishing the cups I annealed the copper again and drew on lines as I did when raising. I then planished from the inside out twice and I may repeat this again. I am happy with the shine this has created.
I used my texturing hammer to try and harden up the neck of the spoon. Although I like the effect I find think this is the right piece to use it on. I want my cutlery to be smooth and sleek and all about the lines. I think I may need to make a stake and planish these to a high finish to toughen them up.